Last September I wrote a glowing review of the Spring 2018 Jacquemus collection and have been an enthusiastic fan ever since. For the fall ‘18 round of shows speculation was heavy that Simon Porte Jacquemus, the self taught boy wonder and namesake of Jacquemus, would sign on with one of the fashion behemoths. Much to my relief he retained his independence and took it a step further to announce the addition of men’s wear.
Jacquemus has made it over the hump, so to speak, and is now the golden boy of Paris. I’m sure offers are coming in fast and furiously; an indicator would be the fashion heavyweights that attend his shows. But he has done the heavy lifting on his own and nine years later he has a well-defined brand and the blessing of the press. Not to say he hasn’t hit a few bumps along the way. Though I would argue this is as it should be. Work hard, hone your craft and find your style, out of the glare of the limelight. Jacquemus, the brand and the designer have done this and now he’s reaping the rewards.
From the beginning Jacquemus said it’s always about his mother, a beauty he tragically lost at a young age. From that sentimental stance of love, admiration and loss his collections are a celebration of women. They evoke the sun and sensuality of his youth in the South of France. Absent are the trappings of many emerging collections; the dark, sardonic world view understandably portrayed by young designers today. Jacquemus is a reminder that life is beautiful despite everything.
The real test of any collection, new or old, is if they deliver and sell the goods. Jacquemus I’m happy to say is readily available on line and reasonably priced at that. Simone Porte Jacquemus takes pride in the fact that he sells exactly what he shows. The runway looks, down to the shoes and bags, are for sale and there’s enough of a range to please everyone. Here are my top choices.